Gorilla Trekking Rwanda - Part 1

As my friends would attest, I have been going on about the Mountain Gorillas for years. Finally, in October 2006, I experienced the most amazing visit with them.



There are approximately 700 mountain gorillas in the Virunga Range of volcanic mountains bordering the Congo, Uganda and Rwanda. I chose Rwanda as my destination. I have been drawn to it over the years in part due to its unbelievably sad past but also its beauty which I had only seen in books. And it truly is a beautiful country.



Seeing the gorillas still only appeals to a small number of travelers and Rwanda does make people feel trepidatious; therefore small group touring is limited. I ended up organizing a private tour with a wonderful local company. I was met at Kigali airport by my lovely guide Gilbert. It is about a 3 hour drive to the Parc de Volcans, in the north east. What a beautiful drive.



The country is agriculturally based and most people sustain themselves with their little plots of extremely fertile soil. The country is considered the Land of a Thousand Hills, Mille Collines. As you drive along, the countryside is made up of undulating hills, with a patchwork of terraced farms. So picturesque! Mode of transport for most Rwandese is by foot or bicycle, so the roads are a sea of people hauling all sorts of things on their heads, backs and bikes.



The area surrounding the park has a small main town and a couple of hotels/guesthouses for tourists visiting the gorillas. The accommodation is basic but good and the food is varied and wonderful. I think I had the most delicious tomatoes and avocados I have ever had and certainly the largest avocados! There are quite a few different hikes to do in the area and some beautiful scenic drives. But most people are of course coming here to see the mountain gorillas.

What are you paying for?

Extra Travel Charges



Over the last while, airline charges have risen while the responsibility to the customer has grown alongside these charges. While this hardly seems fair, let's take a look at some of the changes to how we fly when it comes to costs and responsibilities.

The airlines and tour companies (cruises, safaris, and so on) have been offloading charges onto clients, and in some cases, travel agencies. When a client booked a cruise, for instance, they used to get a glossy package full of information about the ship, amenities and what to expect during the cruise - however, now the cruise companies will send an email to the agency, and it's up to the agency to present that material in an aesthetic way to the client. Alternatively, the client will get the email directly and be forced to print it off at home - or find a printer in which to do so if they need a hard copy of their itinerary. Regardless, they will be printing off their boarding pass.

This follows through to the airlines. You now print off your own boarding pass at home, which is several sheets of paper more than necessary. Upon your arrival at the airport you now go through a self-check in procedure, and your baggage tags print out. You're expected to tag your own baggage and offload it at the appropriate carousel. The idea of the self-sufficient passenger is more prevalent throughout Europe than it is in North America, at least for now.

With all the responsibility on the passenger, you'd think the charges would go down. However, there's fuel surcharges (a ton), checked baggage charges, extra government taxes (more in Canada than in the U.S.) and yet the flights are still packed! The extra baggage charges have resulted in a lot more people flying with carry-on luggage because they're not paying fees for each bag they want to check.

I always recommend finding something to eat before you get on the plane or grabbing something to take on the plane - plus water to stay hydrated. The food available on the planes isn't nourishing or healthy, and many airlines only take credit now - no cash. If you don't have a credit card, now you're out of luck when it comes to eating. Alternatively, I've been on several 4+ hour flights that don't even have food for purchase available as an option! That can be a nasty shock if you're unprepared.

Along this line of additional charges, I've also noticed that when you redeem Aeroplan points online, it's a lot cheaper to fly Lufthansa than it is Air Canada. When redeeming points for example, you pay 60,000 points for your flight and you pay the tax yourself. Air Canada attaches additional fuel surcharges and taxes which can cause the consumer to pay $500+ just in taxes for their flight. I feel as if this is double-dipping.

If you're prepared and aware, flying can be enjoyable, stress-free and even fun, but if you're hit with a surprise of extra charges and a lack of food on a long flight, flying quickly loses it's allure as a form of travel.

- Wendy Fougner

City Snap Guide: Victoria

When people think of the coast of British Columbia, they usually think of Vancouver when it comes to cities. Vancouver is fabulous, but the smaller city - and also the capital of the province - is located at the southern tip of Vancouver Island. Culturally rich, beautiful and enticing, Victoria is one of the most beautiful places in the world! It's easily accessible by a number of ways, including an international airport, ferries from both the lower mainland and Washington state, staying in Victoria allows you to explore Vancouver Island and soak in some of the island lifestyle. What are you waiting for? The city is extremely tourist accessible, there's even an iPhone app by Tourism Victoria that can be found at the Apple iTunes App Store.

Beautiful Scenery

It's hard to boil down all the great places to see in Victoria, but there are definitely a couple "must-sees" for a first timer. Beacon Hill park is known for it's beautiful gardens and many areas to stroll - there's ducks in the ponds, and a ton of places for picnics. The Buchart Gardens are world renowned for their beautifully designed gardens. For information on their tours and pricing, visit their website. You can't miss walking along the seawall either, and while you're there - take a peek at the Parliament buildings, they're absolutely gorgeous.

Cultural Discoveries

Victoria is home to the Royal British Columbia Museum, that has quite an incredible permanent collection, and the shows that go through there are absolutely phenomenal. The art collection is fabulous as well. There are also small art galleries around the city that showcase some of the great Canadian art there is available. The island is truly full of art and artists, so artisan products of all types are available in small boutiques downtown Victoria. The Royal BC Museum is also home to the IMAX theater which does incredible shows. Don't forget to also check out Craigdarroch Castle! Craigdarroch Castle historic house museum is a "must see" on your visit to Victoria, B. C. The wealthy Dunsmuir family saga and the mansion they built is a key piece of British Columbia's history. Designated as one of Canada's National Historic Sites, this Victorian Castle is a legendary tourist attraction.

Great Eats

Victoria offers many great restaurants but one of the most incredible things to do is have high tea at the Empress Hotel. Steeped in tradition, The Empress has been serving Victoria's grandest tradition of Afternoon Tea for over a century. The majestic lobby of this landmark hotel has played host to England's most beloved ritual - the taking of Afternoon Tea to famed celebrities, dignitaries and royalty alike. A bit pricey but an afternoon you won't soon forget. All throughout the downtown area, you'll find tons of quaint local restaurants as well as popular favourites from throughout North America.

Fantastic Shopping

Shopping in Victoria is fabulous! Whether you are just window shopping or on a major shopping spree, in Victoria you can browse quaint shops, local markets and major shopping malls to find your heart's desire. Victoria offers everything from antiques to the wares of local artisans and the designs of the hippest trendsetters. The city's layout encourages strolling and exploring the many side streets at an easy pace. From the Inner Harbour, wander up Government Street to find the perfect gift or souvenir. Four blocks along Government Street, turn right into Trounce Alley, one of Victoria's best-kept secrets. European fashions and gift shops await. Across the street from Trounce Alley, find Bastion Square; once the site of Victoria's Court House, Law Chambers, a brothel and several hangings, Bastion Square is now animated with shops and restaurants.

And so much more is available in Victoria. Depending on where you want to stay, a knowledgeable travel specialist can help you get to the island as well as find a perfect hotel for you, or there's also a wide variety of Victoria vacation rentals!

Vancouver Island

Vancouver Island is the paradise of British Columbia. Situated approximately forty miles from the mainland, Vancouver Island stretches from it's furthest northern point 300 miles to it's southernmost tip and capital of British Columbia, the city of Victoria. Vancouver Island offers so much for visitors. The best way to explore the area is through a vacation rental on Vancouver Island, giving you time to explore everywhere from Victoria to Nanoose, and towards the west coast of the island in Tofino or Uclulet. There are many wonderful areas along the way!



Long Beach in Tofino is an experience like no other. West Coast beaches along Vancouver Island have a peaceful quality about them. Heading south, Cathedral Grove is located north of Parksville and Qualicum and is packed full of old growth forests and beautiful canopies. It's one of the most beautiful aspects of the island. Parkville vacation rentals as well as Nanoose vacation rentals are both fairly central on Vancouver Island and allow you to explore the surrounding area quite easily while still having a place close by to spend the night.



If you want to explore the capital of British Columbia, there are plenty of Victoria vacation rentals to choose from. Victoria is a year-round tourism destination that offers a friendly, safe haven for all visitors. With a clean environment and charming ambiance, it is no surprise that Victoria is one of the world's favourite destinations.



What are you waiting for? Planning a trip to Vancouver Island, BC awaits you!

City Snap Guide: Portland

"America's Greenest City" and one of the "World's Most Successful Cities" are just two of the titles Portland has graciously accepted over the years without making too much of a fuss. This northwestern Oregon metropolis, which sits near the confluence of the Willamette and Columbia rivers, is an outdoor lover's paradise with a food and artisan craft distillery scene to complement well-exercised appetites. But it's the spate of cultural riches this city modestly houses that continues to delight the tourists who feed they've stumbled upon their own Portlandia (if you've watched the IFC series created by Saturday Night Live cast member Fred Armisen, you'll know what I mean).



Portland Potables
American-crafted eau de vies? You bet your fermented fruit! In 1985, Clear Creek Distillery's founder Steve McCarthy led the charge using his family's Hood River orchard's fruit to make a signature Portland eau de vie. More recently, eight new distilleries have opened around the city, helping spawn the Great American Distillers' Festival every October. More than 40 spirits are sampled, with a bartenders' competition and spirit appreciation seminars held for every thirsty traveller. Watch for the award-winning Bendistillery vodka and gin!

Free and Green!
The first Thursday of every month in Northwest Portland (Old Town and the Pearl District) offers up a cultural freebie that sees locals and visitors alike descend on shops that turn into artistic salons for the night, as well as bona fide galleries, for a jolt of art. Don't miss the PDX and Elizabeth Leach galleries or the Pacific Northwest College of Art (PNCA) for cutting-edge mixed media, photography and sculpture. If you favour shopping over the aesthetic, head across the Willamette River to SuperVegan, the world's first vegan mall (SE Stark and 12th Ave.) where hip clothing, cookies, cakes and even body art all proudly boast vegan and green-friendly cred. This is definitely an 'only in Portland' experience.

Top of the Charts
This is a town that likes its music varied and indie, and it's where local gal Courtney Love (of Hole fame) met the late Nirvana frontman Kurt Cobain. Today, The Dandy Warhols, Modest Mouse, Everclear and The Decemberists are some of the bands that make Portland home. And if you remember the late 50's/early 60's blockbuster Louie Louie, you'll be interested to know that the city's Paul Revere & the Raiders as well as The Kingsmen both covered the tune to frenzied fame. You might catch a big local act at the Crystal Ballroom, featuring its floating dance floor, at the Doug Fir Lounge or the intimate Mississippi Studios - your chance to say "I saw (insert name of band) first!"

Pop Culture
The Simpsons creator and Portland native Matt Groening literally drew upon his hometown and family to create Springfield and the cartoon's namesake animated family. Other creative types inspired by the city include filmmaker Gus Van Sant (Good Will Hunting) and cartoonist/illustrator Dan Steffan (Heavy Metal and other magazines). Maybe it's nearby Oaks Park, an old-school midway - one of the oldest continually operating amusement parks in the U.S. - that keeps locals young at heart. The park's Ferris wheel and charming roller rink are open year-round; happy skaters glide to the melodies of an old Wurlitzer pipe organ!

Get Away
A 30-minute drive from downtown Portland puts you in what some call 'the Burgundy of America,' aka the Willamette Valley wine country - one of the premier wine-producing areas in the world. The valley sits at the same latitude as France's Burgundy region and there are more than 200 wineries to choose from, many of them producing the state's signature Pinot Noir wines. While the film Sidesways extolled Pinot Noir's virtues, the state's Pinot Gris is quickly catching up in popularity. Head south from the city on the Pacific Highway and you'll find Rex Hill Vineyards in Newberg - the entrance to wine country. Sample both versions of Pinot as well as Chardonnay, Riesling and Merlot. Keep going to Dundee, where you'll find organic vineyard Sokol Blosser and Argyle Winery, which pours sparkling varieties in a historic tasting room. And you've just begun!

Happy travelling!

Ports of Call and Natural Wonders Down Under

Many of Australia and New Zealand's most interesting towns and cities are found along the coast so cruising is a convenient way to see them. The major cities of Auckland, Wellington, Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth (port of Fremantle) are prominent on cruise itineraries. You'll find there are many other fascinating ports* of call to explore as well including these:

• Geelong, Australia - The second largest city in the state of Victoria, noted for its vibrant waterfront. It's the gateway to the Bellarine Peninsula and Great Ocean Road.
• Hobart and Burnie, Tasmania - Discover the island state of Tasmania during calls at these ports. This beautiful island has many unusual attractions and a fascinating history. Highlights include scenic hiking, breathing the world's cleanest air and meeting some unique wildlife like the Tasmanian Devil.
• Dunedin, New Zealand - This charming university town with a strong Scottish background is found on most New Zealand cruises. The rugged Otago Peninsula is within the city boundaries giving you the chance for some excellent eco-adventures, wildlife and bird viewing.
• Picton, New Zealand - You're in the picturesque Marlborough region when you call at Picton. Tour the renowned Marlborough wineries, hike the Queen Charlotte track and visit historic Ship Cove.

Natural wonders abound down under and cruising lets you see these from a different perspective:

• Fjordland National Park, New Zealand - Spend a day cruising not only famous Milford Sound, but Dusky and Doubtful Sounds as well! It's some of the finest scenic cruising anywhere as you maneuver through these spectacular waterways. The on board naturalist and historian will keep you entertained and informed throughout the day.
• White Island Marine Volcano, New Zealand - See this active volcano in action as you sail close to the exposed crater. It's one of the most thrilling cruise experiences you'll ever have.
• Rotorua, New Zealand - The thermal capital of New Zealand is certainly a fascinating place to visit on day trips from Tauranga. Be enthralled by the active geysers, mud pools and hot springs and enjoy one of the best Maori cultural experiences in the country.
• The Great Barrier Reef, Australia - Cruising Queensland and the Coral Sea is another thrill. You'll see the reef at various points and have opportunities to discover its underwater world at floating platforms along the reef.
• Willis Island, Coral Islands Territory - The three staff members at the weather station are the only people who live on this island in Australia's Coral Sea Islands Territory. Watch them set off a weather balloon and hear their interesting chat with the Captain which is broadcast over the speakers on deck.
• The Kimberley Coast, Western Australia - This Outback region is considered by many to be the last great frontier of Australia. See it on "Top End" sailings between Sydney and Fremantle. Get a taste of the area during a call at Broome and scenic cruising of the rugged, red, Kimberley coast.

Cruising Down Under

Good news - there are now more options than ever when planning a cruise to Australia and New Zealand. This is the fastest growing cruise market in the world so the number of ships and itineraries is on the rise.

- The most popular itinerary is still between Auckland and Sydney calling at ports in New Zealand, Tasmania and Australia.
- Many other options are now available with more departures than ever before. How about New Zealand round-trip from Melbourne, Brisbane or Sydney; Queensland from Sydney; Western Australia from Fremantle; a full circumnavigation of Australia from Melbourne or a top end cruise from Fremantle to Sydney?
- Our preferred cruise lines calling at ports in Australia and New Zealand are Princess, Holland America, Royal Caribbean, Celebrity, Oceania, Regent Seven Seas, Crystal, Silversea, Seabourn and Cunard, giving you a wide range of ships to choose from.
- While there are a few ships based in Australia, year-round, most visit during the Southern Hemisphere's spring and summer arriving in November or December and staying till March or April. This means there are some great positioning cruise itineraries available as well. Sydney to Singapore and on to Europe as well as voyages to/from North America, via Asia or the Pacific islands, give you some amazing opportunities for long, exotic sailings.
- New partner, Orion Expedition Cruises, offers luxurious adventure sailings to remote areas. The company's 100-passenger ships, Orion and Orion II, sail to the Kimberley Coast, Tasmania, Queensland and many parts of New Zealand.

Look for more information on cruising down under on Wednesday!